I Hunted Grizzlies in Canada’s Overlooked Paradise

A wild grizzly bear is standing 40 meters away as I hide behind a fallen log, observing it munching on some grass.

Am I destined to become the next dish? Or just another British person overseas, annoying this majestic creature as it attempts to focus on its post-hibernation feast?

I'm right in the middle of the Great Bear Rainforest, far out in the wildernes s. British Columbia As the name implies, bears make their home in the shadowy areas. Canada 're mountains and subsist from the murky waters of the estuary.

I'm here to locate one.

It’s one of Canada’s lesser-visited destinations , with none of Quebec’s culture or Toronto ’s culinary wow factor .

But there’s more to Northern British Columbia than bear spotting; the area is steeped in a bloody colonial history I imagine few in the UK are aware of.

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Moreover, featuring snow-capped mountains, picture-perfect villages, and the city of Vancouver a one-hour flight away, the region has plenty for every taste — but bear spotting takes the ticket.

We're setting out for a bear search

As I envision it, I picture myself becoming friends with a wild animal, like a contemporary Tarzan but wearing hiking shoes and a red insulated jacket instead. However, even though they’re common around here, the challenge lies in locating one willing to let me approach closely.

We've recently dedicated two hours to riding a jet boat through windy and rainy conditions, all to arrive at an estuary in hopes of catching sight of some wildlife.

As we approach our destination, the mountains loom up around us, forming a dramatic backdrop for the scenery. The cold mist lashes at us as we delve deeper into the wild terrain.

Indications that bears are nearby are growing more obvious.

'You know you're drawing nearer when you spot grass cut neatly at the tips,' our guide Rob Bryce shares. 'It indicates they've been feeding on it post-hibernation.'

With a gentle Canadian accent, his voice carries the weight of extensive experience — through the passage of time, he has merged seamlessly with the land he has devoted his life to.

Rob’s company, North BC Speedboat Adventure Tours takes pride in leading both travelers and urban Canadian residents away from well-trodden routes to uncover the hidden gems this area provides.

He guarantees that he has always managed to locate a bear in this area.

As we spend more time on the road, our excitement builds at the thought of spotting one in nature, yet we're cautioned to remain cautious.

I remember the tale of Timothy Treadwell, also known as 'Grizzly Man,' who believed he could coexist with bears in Alaska. As expected, both he and his partner were tragically killed and consumed by the animals.

Their deaths were only discovered after a gruesome audio recording was found inside a camera left at the scene, with park rangers forced to listen to the cries of the couple as they were mauled to death.

But the chances of us being attacked are, thankfully, slim. Bears who are fresh out of hibernation eat only grass for the first six weeks to rebuild their strength before they can hunt.

Regardless, I take note of the location of the bear spray and roughly plan an escape route in my mind.

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'Pulses of adrenaline surge through me'

After several hours of journeying, our adventure comes to an unexpected halt when the engine shuts down, leaving us in total silence aboard the vessel.

Rob, with his eagle eyesight, has spotted a brown lump slowly wandering in the tall grass close to the water.

It's odd how the human mind responds when scrutinized as prey by a predator.

Adrenaline rushes through my body. Eye-to-eye with nature, in my bones I know that I am prey, exposed and staring deep into the soul of the King of the Rainforest.

However, the bear simply glances upward, undisturbed by our presence, and carries on eating.

Soon enough, two more reveal themselves, forming a triangle around our boat. To my delight, they are joined by twin cubs.

Watching the cubs frolic in the grass fills me with a surge of warmth — but also serves as a stark reminder that we are outsiders here.

Even more terrifying? Taking off in a seaplane

During our journeys, we encounter milder critters too: numerous bald eagles and sea lions beyond my ability to tally, along with a whale thrusting out of the water under grey heavens.

However, facing off with a bear doesn't scare me as much as what I consider the most frightening aspect of the journey: my inaugural flight in a seaplane.

Secured in the smallest aircraft I've ever sat in, the shaking doors aren’t doing anything to ease my nerves as we ascend from Tyhee Lake, a body of water named after the term 'chief'.

As the water beneath us diminishes, the sight through the window transforms into a stunning depiction of grand glaciers. My anxieties fade, and before long, we touch down at the base of the towering 8,000 ft Hawson Range.

If flying isn’t your preference, the hiking trail up Hudson Bay Mountain to Crater Lake at the summit offers another fantastic adventure (my first June where I walked through snow).

The picturesque path encircled by snowy summits and powerful waters can be completed in roughly two hours — make sure to bring along some bug spray.

Although the north part of British Columbia still hasn’t been impacted much by large-scale tourism, our bush pilot, Severine Oosterhoff, mentions that she’s beginning to see more individuals undertaking the trip regularly.

‘We would only really fly hunters out here,’ she says.

‘But now more tourists and locals are ringing us up asking to see the glaciers, it’s great.’

Studying the liberation of Indigenous peoples

For many decades, over 200 nations have been ruled by the Indian Act, established after the conclusion of British colonization in 1871.

In 1858, when the British took control of what is now known as British Columbia, they promptly prohibited the First Nations people from practicing any aspect of their cultural heritage.

They lost their linguistic heritage and their way of life centered around community living; gatherings were banned — erasing their sense of self.

“To avoid detection during gatherings, a sentry was posted at the door to alert everyone when the colonizers approached,” our guide Tina explains to us. Nisga’a Museum .

'When everyone arrived, they would all join in singing Christian hymns.'

She says, "It was these minor acts of defiance that allowed our community to persist, even when we were operating secretly."

A trip to the Ksan Historical Village provides a chilling insight into existence within such circumstances, and the profound bond with nature prior to colonization wiping it out.

Houses made of wood line up towards the river, featuring totem poles that tower over the trees, symbolizing the stories and journeys of clan members.

But the stories behind these wooden structures will never be revealed to tourists.

'It is profoundly disrespectful to narrate others' tales, which is why, according to our country's legislation, their relatives could legally end my life,' states master carver Calvin McNeil from the Nisga'a Nation.

The timing of visiting British Columbia could not be more opportune, as the dynamics between the state and the First Nations start to evolve.

Maybe as native communities rediscover their heritage, the bond between humans and nature – including bears – will be appropriately reinstated.

Where to Go When Visiting Northern British Columbia

Getting there and around

Canada Just The Way You Want It has unveiled a new self-drive adventure through Northern British Columbia’s stunning wilderness, known as Exploring The Great Wilderness of Northern British Columbia.

The 15-day trip departs from Vancouver and concludes in Terrace, passing through locations such as Smithers, Prince George, Mount Robson, Burns Lake, and Stewart along the way. The journey starts at £2,320 per person and covers return international flights, accommodations for 14 nights, and car hire services.

Tours of wildlife and trips along the Skeena River are arranged independently and can be booked through Northern BC Jet Boat Tours.

Hotels and restaurants

Even though most of these towns might seem tiny to those from the city, they all provided plenty of lodging options for resting your legs after a full day of bear hunting.

In Terrace, the Sandman Hotel was a straightforward choice yet provided all required features at approximately $131.

You have your pick of diners including Denny’s and local Kathleen’s Grill offering traditional breakfasts, burgers, and of course Poutine for approximately $20.

In Smithers, located roughly two hours to the east, the pricing is quite similar. A stay for the night costs about the same. Prestige Hudson Bay Lodge costs around $250.

Many of the eateries in this region are part of franchises found all over Canada, such as steakhouses offering dinners for under $40.

Brooke Davies was a visitor DestinationBC .

The article initially appeared on April 27, 2025.

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